Mole cricket (or cabbage) inflicts tremendous damage to landings in the summer cottage, rapidly multiplies and is resistant to attempts to withdraw it.
Effective ways to get rid of the bear in the garden and greenhouse exist, including ready-made drugs and folk remedies. But only the prevention of the appearance of the bear can solve the problem forever. So, 10 ways to protect the cottage from bear.
What is this insect?
The Bear Family has about 110 species. In the gardens and fields of the CIS countries, GRYLLOTALPA is most often found, that is, an ordinary bear.
The insect belongs to the squad of the straighteners, being a close relative of the crickets.
The adaptability and vitality of the bear is amazing, which makes it an extremely dangerous guest in the summer cottage:
- The insect is large and covered with a durable carapace. It is difficult to crush it with your foot or stick. It is best if a shovel is at hand when meeting with him.
- Lives in burrows and can quickly bury in the ground.
- He knows how to run, fly and swim. With any way of moving, it retains confidence and develops high speed.
- The pest can move 3-4 km by air, not a single bestdogfood.Expert is safe from its appearance.
- Puts any cultivated plants, if there is a choice, prefers to eat root crops.
- Each pair of individuals leaves many descendants.
- The bears are careful, for the flight they are selected only at night. To the eyes of people, as a rule, come across when randomly digging up with a lump of soil.
In addition, her most terrible enemies, who can quickly exterminate insects, also harm the garden or field – these are mole.
Anatomy and the life of the bear
The body of an adult pest consists of a thug and abdomen (the ratio of their dimensions 1: 3) and reaches a length of 5-8 cm, and in width-about 1 cm. The coloring is dark brown, the lower part distinguishes a lighter shade.
The first pair of limbs is adapted for digging the soil, these are short and powerful legs with teeth.
In total, the insect has six legs, other processes – tentacles and antennae on the head, as well as two rudimentary outgrowths in the rear.
The thug is covered with a thick carapace, under which the bear can hide the head. Two transparent wings are folded with harnesses, partially protruding from under the uppers.
The full cycle of the development of the pest lasts 1-2 years, in the warm climate it is shorter.
Mating occurs during the second half of May, and in the greenhouse begin in March. The female pulls out a chamber in the ground at a depth of 10-20 cm, where she lays 300-500 eggs and remains to maintain the soil moisture, opening or closing the entrance to the hole.
Depending on the air temperature, the larvae exit eggs after 10-20 days. At first they feed on overwhelmed organics. The first 15-20 days the female protects young animals. At the age of month, larvae leave the nest and switch to the main diet.
For the winter, both larvae and adults go into deep layers of soil – from 20 cm to 1 m. If possible, winter in manure or compost.
For awakening, the warning of the Earth is required to +9… +10 ° C. But insects begin to eat only at +12… +15 ° C in the upper layers.
The larva reaches the shape of the imago in the summer.
In the wild, the bear sets wet areas – the banks of rivers, lakes, swamps, places with a high level of groundwater. Prefers the soil rich in humus.
That is why she is suitable for her, well-fertilized gardens, which are regularly watered.
What harm does
The bear poses a threat to almost all vegetable, grain, fruit and berry crops. In addition, the parasite destroys rainworms, useful manufacturers of humus.
Putings in nutrition:
- Roots. The most likely food of the bear in an ordinary garden is tubers of potatoes, beets, carrots.
- Bulbs and rhizomes. If underground vegetables are not enough, the insect will eat the roots of cabbage, bell pepper, tomatoes, cucumbers. He especially likes to enjoy young seedlings.
- Grain. The pest will not disappear even in the field – eats seeds, roots, gnaws even seedlings.
- The roots of bushes and trees. Medved women prefer cultivated plants, but, in extreme cases, they are able to feed even the roots of decorative perennials and trees.
The insect destroys plantings not only for the purpose of nutrition. It damages the roots by accident, breaking away a lot of moves, while raising the soil, which is why the bed is dry faster. It can gnaw the stem of the plant to remove the shadow above your nest.
Signs of appearance on the site
The bear rarely rises to the surface, there is a chance to see it only when the potatoes are digging.
You can notice the presence of the pest in the garden by indirect signs:
- Deep holes with a diameter of about 1. 5 cm;
- Tunnels from raised earth around the stems (especially clearly visible after the rain);
- Bruthing of the Solen in the evenings (the bear makes very similar sounds);
- The appearance on the bestdogfood.Expert of the sandy OS Larra Anathema – this insect parasitizes only on the bear, but it is found exclusively in the southern regions;
- Asymptomatic wilting of healthy plants.
If you pull the damaged beets or carrots by the tops, the root crop will come out of the ground too easily. Of the vegetables, large pieces of pulp, similar to holes, will be departed. The same traces can be seen on potato tubers.
How to get rid of a spider mite on tomatoes, effective methods of struggle in a greenhouse and in open ground
Effective ways to get rid of a bear
The choice of the product against the pest depends on the degree of damage to the site. If there are a lot of insects, it is better to use pesticides.
The biological products are effective, but work for a long perspective, folk remedies are suitable to get rid of a small population.
Chemicals
The use of insecticides is the most effective way to combat the bear.
Diazinone or imidaclopride is often used as the active substance, but there are drugs with the other basis.
Most of these funds also work against other underground pests:
- Wireworm;
- Bronze larvae;
- Larvae of the May beetle;
- Black ants.
Insecticides from the bear are most often produced in the form of large granules. Their main mass is plant raw materials, which is the food of the insect.
The mandatory component is aromatic and taste additives that attract pests.
The following pesticides have proven themselves in the fight against a bear: the following pesticides:
The drug is safe for soil microflora and rainworms. Saves properties 3 weeks after entering, regardless of the weatheritable for protecting potatoes, cabbage, onions, decorative plants.
Apply 2 months before harvesting (optimally – before landing). Dig between the beds of trenches with a depth of 3-4 cm and distribute granules in them. Expect about 200 g of funds on a hundred landing sessions. Sprinkle the furrows with the soil and pour abundantly.
Grisli, Medvegon, Terradox
Analogs of Medvettox with a lower concentration of diazinon (40 g/kg versus 50 g/kg).
The terms of entry and the consumption rate is the same. Potatoes and cabbage can be treated 2 times a season, but on the beds with early varieties and onions planted on the pen are not used. Use strawberries only after collecting berries.
Insecticide is not washed off by rain, it acts up to 3 weeks if the air temperature does not reach +40 ° C.
The product can be used similarly to Medvetox or laid in holes. Apply at a temperature not higher than +25 ° in the morning or in the evening. Recommended for greenhouses.
In addition to the active substance, it contains 8 ingredients for luring the pest. It has all the advantages of Medvetox, except for the duration of the protective action-10-14 days.
Pour the product on the hole on the bear of the bear and sprinkle with the ground on a teaspoon. Moisten the top layer. If there is a lot of holes, lay out the portions of the drug at a distance of 50-70 cm. Consumption-300 g per 100 m 2.
Phenaxine plus (carbafos)
The product is produced in the form of granules, while the “phenaxine” powder is designed for use in rooms (from cockroaches, bugs), where it cannot fall into the soil. The substance is very toxic. Saves effectiveness for 21 days.
Brease the granules in the grooves around the perimeter of the beds with a flow rate of 1 kg per hundred. It is permissible to use twice to protect potatoes, strawberries, vegetable and floral crops. Waiting time is 20 days.
It also contains pencicon, which allows the use of insecticide as a fungicide. The drug is designed to protect potatoes, acts for 50 days.
Dilute 2 ml of emulsion in 10 liters of water and spill 10 square meters with a solution. Meters of beds 60 days before harvest.
Rembek (Imidakloprad), analogue – line
Provides protection of vegetable, floral and berry crops within 10-14 days after application.
Lay microgranulas in holes by half a teaspoon (2-4 g) in each. Close the inputs with soil, pour and seal. Explore 300 g of funds for 1 hundred.
Rubi Rofatox (fieprin)
It works 2-4 weeks, after which it breaks up into environmentally friendly components. At temperatures above +30 ° C, the protective effect is faster.
It is recommended to use 3 times per season: 10 days before planting, fill the granules into the soil to a depth of 5 cm, repeat this procedure in the fall, and fall asleep in the hole in the summer. The density of the application is 5-10 granules by 0. 5-1 m 2. To protect seedlings, 2-3 granules are dug at a distance of 15 cm from the stem.
The drugs against the bear are moderately toxic for humans, many of them are very dangerous for animals, fish and birds, but they are all destructive for bees. In working with them, observe safety measures and always sprinkle the poison with the earth so that insects and birds do not reach it.
Biological means
A softer and safe way to clean the bestdogfood.Expert from the bear is to use biological products.
Such drugs act due to microorganisms parasitizing on the pests, and do not have a negative effect on plants and soil.
Effectively work against the bear:
Contains nematodes that infect the larvae of the mole cricket (does not work against adults) and other harmful insects. Long-acting drug – outside the body of the carrier, the nematode can live for more than 2 years, surviving the winter in hibernation.
Apply the product to previously loosened soil by watering. Make up the solution so that 120-250 thousand nematodes get under each plant. Assign work on a cloudy, rainy day is better, in the late afternoon. The temperature must be below +25°C.
It acts due to the spores of the fungus Beauveria bassiana, capable of germinating into the body of the pest. An infected bear infects other individuals.
Carry out 2 treatments, spraying the soil around the plants with a solution, with a break of 7-14 days. The waiting period is 5 days.
Metarizin, analogue – Entocid
Contains the fungus Metarhizium anisopliae, which infects insects in a manner similar to Beauveria bassiana.
Contribute when planting potatoes directly into the hole. Dissolve 100 ml of product in 2 liters of water. Spend this volume on 1 hundred acres of beds.
The composition of this insecticide includes spores of both entomopathogenic fungi. It is advisable to apply it in spring and autumn for two years – the bestdogfood.Expert will be populated by mushrooms that will protect it for several years.
The drug can be applied dry when digging – 2-5 g per square. You can also pour the solution into the hole for potatoes or vegetable seedlings. In this case, pour 20 g of powder into 250 ml of warm water, leave for 10 minutes and dilute in 10 liters of water. Pour 0. 5-1 l into the hole.
Extraflor from Medvedka
Mole Cricket Experiment!
Biological product containing essential oils of garlic and fir. The product is absolutely safe for plants, humans and animals, does not accumulate in soil and fruit tissues. Provides pest protection for 30-40 days.
Add 2-3 g of powder to the planting hole, but isolate from the roots of the seedlings with a layer of earth. Also distribute the drug in a trench 15 cm deep around the entire perimeter of the beds. After 2 hours after this, the bear will stop eating and will soon leave the treated area.
Ultrasonic repellent
Sometimes a bear is easier to drive away than to kill. For this, repellers are designed that produce ultrasonic waves of a certain frequency, which cause anxiety and panic in insects, forcing them to flee.
Examples of such devices that act against Medvedka:
- Bered;
- Rexant;
- Weitech-WK677 Solar;
- Tornado FSW. 04.
It is important to choose the right device:
Typically, insect replacements also act against rodents. They will not suit the owners of hamsters, but they do not affect a person, cats, dogs, parrots. To expel the bear, choose devices from soil pests (also drive ants, moles, mice, snakes).
If the devices for rooms operate within 200 m 2, then in street exposure there are 6-10 acres. Keep in mind that sandy or peat soil is poorly allowed to pass ultrasound, i. E. A more powerful repeller or several devices will be required.
Many models work from a power grid. You can stretch the extension cord to the outlet, but it is much more convenient (and more economical) from the solar battery.
Since the device will be installed on the street, it must be made of wear-resistant materials, have a solid design and protection against atmospheric influences.
The effect of the waves of waves from the walls
It enhances the scaring effect, but against soil pests will work only if there is a fence with a deep foundation or underground fence. In other cases, the function is useless and can hide the lack of power.
The repeller does not start working instantly. Typically, insects are required to expel from 1 to 3 weeks.
Each device has a limit for the temperature and humidity of the air at which it can be operated. Since soil pests attack in the summer, it is worth choosing a model that operates in conditions up to +50 ° C and at least 90% of the humidity.
In addition to ultrasound, some devices can also produce: to enhance the action:
- Electromagnetic radiation;
- Light flashes;
- Vibration.
The repellingants do not affect the health and well-being of a person, the development and productivity of plants, do not affect the work of other equipment.
Folk remedies (methods)
If the bear has appeared recently, you can try to withdraw it with home remedies, and then take preventive protection measures. There are 6 effective folk methods to get rid of the insect.
Homemade traps
Knowing the preferences of the bear, the gardener can lure it onto the surface of the soil or lure it into a container, from where it will not get out, and destroy it.
There are several options:
Near the entrance to the hole, dig a glass jar along the edges. It is more convenient to place it under the slope so that the part of the neck is in the hole, such a trap can be covered with cardboard so as not to attract flies and bees. Pour about 100 g of beer, sweet water, honey into the container.
The bear can be lured with food, and so that it rises to the surface during the day, create a shelter for her. Dig the hole and put in it millet, pea, pearl barley, oatmeal or rice porridge mixed with sunflower oil or beer. Cover with plywood or roofing material. The pest will come at sunset or a couple of hours until noon. Smell and quickly remove the shelter.
Manure or compost
In the early autumn, dig a few pits with a depth of 50 cm and fill them with manure (preferably horse, it is the most warm-intensive) mixed with straw. Part of the bear will hide there for the winter. After the arrival of frosts (at least-5 ° C), corm a manure and scatter. Large individuals can be assembled, the remaining larvae will die in the cold.
Poisoned baits
Porridge for the bear can also be mixed with insecticide. For this purpose, it is better not to cook the cereal, but to soak in a solution of poison at night.
Add unrefined sunflower oil to the water. So that the grain does not sprout, being in the ground, choose a crushed cereal.
Put the poisoned porridge on a teaspoon right in the mink or next to it. It will be convenient to cover such a heap with a plastic bottle cut. Porridge is protected from rain and drying, and the gardener will see when the insect will eat it.
The bear loves the aroma of sunflower oil very much and is very likely to eat everything that is mixed with him. You can use this weakness:
- Lubricate granules of chemicals.
- Mix in equal proportions with an egg shell-index. This tool is safe and even useful for the crop, but the pest dies after it eating.
Another remedy is match heads. Roll up the size of a nut from soaked black bread. Stuck 10 matches in it with heads inside. Leave for a couple of hours. Remove the matches, and make a few “peas” from one ball. Throw them in the moves of the bear.
Unpleasant shower
This method will work if the majority of exits from Nor managed to detect, that is, there are not very many pests on the site.
The essence of the method is to pour an irritating insect liquid into all burrows, wait for it to come out and kill.
The bear can dig a new move, but in a shock state will rather use the old one.
In addition, quite aggressive liquids are used to expel, so that the individual remaining in the ground will die or leave the garden.
However, to use, as advised, kerosene or calcium carbide means arranging a local ecological disaster on the site.
It is worth considering only the most sparing options:
Grate 50 g on a grater and dissolve in a bucket of water. Pour 2 liters into each hole. Do not add washing powders or liquid soap, only natural soap is suitable – green, tar, and household. This minimizes the inevitable harm to the soil.
Pour into each mink a teaspoon of oil, and a bucket of water is added on top. The oil film will cover the body of the insect by overwhelming the breath, so the bear will try to get to the surface.
Pour a kilogram of husks of 10 liters of water and leave for 5 days. Dilute each liter of infusion of 5 liters of water and pour it into the holes. Even if the bear does not come out, the remedy will scare her away. The infusion can be used for continuous watering of beds every 2 weeks.
Scruising by smells
If some substances are poured into the soil, then it is quite possible to use for impregnation of sand or rags to decompose them around the beds.
The method is convenient for protecting greenhouses-protect them around the perimeter with trenches with a depth of 10-15 cm, filled with a frightening mixture.
The best suits are:
- Kerosene;
- Ammonia;
- Naftalin (pour the powder in its pure form).
The bear cannot stand all these smells. In addition, experienced gardeners are advised to put in a landing hole in a small piece of fish.
Repulsive plants
The bear does not like odorous herbs, the smell of needles and a few more plant aromas. This feature can be used to drive it or limit access to plants.
Unpleasant to the bear culture
Lay out pine, spruce or fir branches between the rows of potatoes. It is better to do this no later than flowering, after which tubers begin to grow.
The bear does not tolerate aspen, cherry, alder. Cut from these trees several branches up to half a centimeter. Do not take off the bark. Stuck the rods around the perimeter of the landing and between the rows to a depth of 30 cm. When they begin to dry, replace it with fresh.
Place the peeled slices of garlic in each of the minks of the bear. You can also bury them one at a hole when planting seedlings.
Spicy and medicinal herbs
Pour mint next to the beds, garlic, coriander, valerian, velvet, calendula.
Also, the bear does not like chrysanthemums and Frithyllaria (the hazel grouse). It is enough to plant the last plant every 1-1. 5 m along the edge of the site.
Enemies of the bear
In addition to underground animals, many birds are hunting for an insect, but the most effective allies are hedgehogs. These animals are active at night, when the pest rises to the surface, so having them on the bestdogfood.Expert is useful.
If the cottage is fenced, the hedgehog will have to be caught and brought. Give him some milk sometimes, but make sure the cats don't drink it. To attract birds, they create an opportunity for them to build a nest on the bestdogfood.Expert (birdhouse, hollow, wheel on the roof).
The most useful birds against the pest:
Before planting and after harvesting, chickens can be released into the garden, they also willingly eat the bear.
How to protect seedlings from a bear
Young plants suffer the most from pest activity. Even if the bear does not touch the tender growth, breaking through the passages, it injures the fragile roots. Damaged seedlings fall and die.
To protect the seedlings, all the above measures are used, but there is also a trouble-free method that is convenient to use specifically for seedlings – individual barriers from the bear.
Install a barrier under the ground, protecting the root system from all sides.
To create it, gardeners use:
The cropped container is placed in the planting hole so that the edges protrude 5 cm above the ground, fill it with a substrate and plant the plant. In this capacity, only 5 liter bottles are suitable, but even they are too cramped for normal root development.
Mosquito netting is best. Make a “cup” out of it by fastening the edges with thread, paper clips or a soldering iron. The roots grow well through the cells, and the bear does not touch such plants.
An old sheet will do, especially a shabby one (but without holes) – it will be easier for the roots to break through it. Matter is simply covered with a landing hole or furrow, leaving the edges on the surface.
Put on the old stocking directly on the root system of the seedling. Make sure that the sprouts are located freely in this "bag" and are correctly directed.
Prevention
Medvedka can return to the bestdogfood.Expert if the conditions on it are favorable enough for her. A relapse is especially likely if the cottage is located near a reservoir or forest. There are several proven ways to secure the garden from an intruder:
- A blind fence with a foundation at least 50 cm deep can block the path of the bear. She will not go down without unnecessary need deeper than half a meter. The fence will not give full protection – the pest can rise to a height of 5 m. But only in warm weather does not like to fly.
- If the fence is wooden, you can install an additional underground barrier. Dig to a depth of 0. 5 m along the perimeter of the bestdogfood.Expert sheets of slate, roofing material, mosquito nets. Overlap so that there are no gaps.
- Carefully inspect the purchased soil, sand, compost or manure. Often it is in them that the larvae and eggs of the bear fall into the garden.
- For a compost heap, it is worth making a separate box with a lid or a tank so that the pest is less likely to get into it for the winter.
- Do not neglect autumn cleaning, remove weeds, loosen the soil. Carry out deep digging (15-30 cm) in autumn and spring. The more you disturb the bear, the less likely it is that she will risk making a nest in such a place.
- The parasite prefers acidic soils, so alkalization is not only beneficial for the crop, but also reduces the risk of the pest.
- Avoid over-irrigation. The insect loves high humidity.
- Do not forget about the enemies of the bear and the plants that scare her away.
The appearance of a bear is fraught with the loss of a considerable part of the crop. The pest is voracious, prolific and resilient.
Use several methods of protection at the same time and immediately begin prevention.
Even if there is no bear, from time to time inspect the ground for moves in order to notice the insect and react as soon as possible.
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